Light bites and drinks at Whiskey & Seaweed, crafted by the kitchen of Core by Clare Smyth, served a delicious procession of pretty plates - in London, England
I first saw Clare Smyth on an episode of Top Chef. Emamored with her personality and point of view, I quickly made reservations to visit the bar portion of Core, Whiskey and Seaweed.
In scheduling, I was aware that I would be visiting Noma in Copenhagen a few days prior. I didn’t want to unconsciously compare two three Michelin starred dinner services to each other. So, making a dinner reservation at Core was not of interest.
Plus, the food from Whiskey and Seaweed comes directly from the kitchen of Core. So, I felt like it was the best of both worlds: incredible food in a more relaxed atmosphere.
Now, I mentioned that I was dining at Whiskey & Seaweed – while in conversation with the table next to me – while dining at The Duchess in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. My temporary friend in conversation served a very honest face – with a very honest opinion of their experience. He then suggested I try a table at Decimo or Brat instead.
However – committed to honoring my curiosity, I kept my reservation at Whiskey & Seaweed. But, I made a note to try those spots during my next trip.
A few days later – once my partner and I arrived and settled into The Great Scotland Yard Hotel, it was a quick Bolt ride to Kensington. Before I knew it, we were at Core.
To start, I ordered the CORE-TIFY (Oloroso Sherry, Ruby Port, Bolly Pratt, Madeira, Absinthe).
It was… completely fine.
We then ordered the ROAST CHICKEN, PEA AND MINT GOUGÈRE (with 5 year old Davidstow cheddar), CORE FRIED CHICKEN AND CAVIAR (Buttermilk and long pepper), LOBSTER ROLL, ISLE OF HARRIS SCALLOP TARTARE (Sea vegetable consomme), HERDWICH LAMB (Sheep’s curd, savory and black cardamom) and CHEESE AND ONION (allums, aged Cheddar and onion broth).
My favorites were the Pea And Mint Gougère and the Core Fried Chicken and Caviar. In fact, I would have opted for three of the fried chicken bites and enjoyed them with a glass of champagne. There’s something about well seasoned fried chicken with the right amount of caviar that’s just – *chef’s kiss.*
I will also say that the scallop dish was phenomenal in presentation. The lamb was beautifully presented, as well. I also sipped a second cocktail, the WHISKEY & SEAWEED (Butter-washed Irish whiskey, kelp, sea lettuce, black cardamon, fino sherry lemon juice) during the larger portioned servings.
Which was again… nice.
However… after the impeccable service of Noma, my time at Whiskey & Seaweed was a slight underwhelming disappointment. It felt like an experience of a parade of gorgeous plates – without finesse.
Now, am I satisfied I tried the sampled cuisine of Core, at Whiskey and Seaweed? Yes.
But, did Noma cast an incredible shadow over what I expect from another three star Michelin experience? Yes – an exceptionally long shadow.
Beautiful food without the finesse of exceptional service simply cannot create the magic that I expect from a three star Michelin experience.
Still, the dishes were truly presented elegantly and were delicious.
Whiskey & Seaweed by Clare Smyth
92 Kensington Park RoadLondon W11 2PN, United Kingdom