National Portrait Gallery at St Martin’s Place

Visiting the National Portrait Gallery at St Martin’s Place and viewing the "Discover Degas and Miss La La" exhibit was an exquisite display of artistic mastery - in London, England

Staying at the Great Scotland Yard hotel was a brilliant move. I was in the heart of a new adventure in London. This time, I was mere steps away from the National Portrait Gallery at St Martin’s Place.

So, on a rather ordinary morning, I took myself out for an artist’s date at the museum.

The National Portrait Gallery enveloped me in its storied history. Nestled just a stone’s throw from Trafalgar Square, the Gallery is a treasure trove of British history and culture. Established in 1856, it was the brainchild of Philip Henry Stanhope, the 5th Earl Stanhope, who envisioned a space dedicated to portraits of the nation’s most notable figures. Opening its doors to the public in 1859 at its original location on Great George Street, the gallery quickly became a beloved institution, allowing visitors to walk among the faces that shaped the UK’s history.

As the gallery’s popularity soared, it made a few moves before finally settling into its permanent home on St Martin’s Place in 1896. The stunning building, designed by Ewan Christian and funded by philanthropist William Henry Alexander, provides a fitting backdrop for its impressive collection. Walking through the halls, you can trace the lineage of British art and influence, from the Tudor monarchs to modern-day icons. The gallery’s extensive collection now boasts over 200,000 portraits, each with its own story to tell.

Discover Degas and Miss La La

My favorite part of the museum was exploring the “Discover Degas and Miss La La” exhibit.

The historical documentation of how Degas was enthralled with the Cirque Fernando in Paris and asked Miss La La to sit for him as he drew her, was powerful.

Born Anna Olga Albertina Brown in 1858, Miss La La defied the conventions of her time, becoming a celebrated aerialist and strongwoman. As illustrated by the wonderful exhibit, her performances were nothing short of spectacular, blending strength, grace, and a fearless spirit.

The Cirque Fernando, nestled in the vibrant heart of Montmartre, was synonymous with Parisian nightlife and avant-garde entertainment. Miss La La’s performances were the epitome of this glamorous era. One of her most iconic acts involved suspending herself from a trapeze by her teeth, a feat that left audiences both mesmerized and breathless.

Her extraordinary career reached its zenith in 1879 when Edgar Degas immortalized her in his famous painting “Miss La La at the Cirque Fernando,” which was the centerpiece of the exhibit.

It was a pleasure to feel that I was viewing an incredible moment in history.

The Last Caravaggio

The Last Caravaggio exhibit was – in short – wild.

Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, a master painter whose works continue to mesmerize and provoke. Born in Milan in 1571, Caravaggio’s early years were marked by a raw intensity that would come to define his artistic style. Moving to Rome in his twenties, he quickly garnered attention for his striking use of chiaroscuro, the dramatic interplay of light and shadow.

Unlike his Baroque contemporaries, Caravaggio eschewed idealized representations in favor of depicting his subjects with gritty authenticity.

The wild part about the exhibit is that I learned that after Caravaggio fled Rome in 1606 due to a fatal brawl, he wandered through Naples, Malta, and Sicily. His final days were marked by desperation and illness as he attempted to return to Rome for a papal pardon. In fact, he boarded a boat traveling to Rome, completely believing that the pardon had been granted. However, en route, he was mistakenly arrested and detained in Porto Ercole. Here, he became separated from all of this belongings (which included completed paintings), as the boat sailed off without him. Caravaggio then died – penniless and alone – from a fever on July 18, 1610 at the age of 38.

With this knowledge, I reflected on the displayed paintings of “The Martyrdom of Saint Ursula” and “Salome with the Head of John the Baptist” from a deeper viewpoint, regarding one’s legacy.

Reflections

After my tour of the museum, I stopped at the gift shop and purchased some delightful gifts to take home.

In reflection of my time, I marveled at how art is such an intimate and powerful force in society. In the end, truly remarkable art transcends time and space, leaving an indelible mark on our hearts and minds. It is a testament to the boundless creativity of the human spirit, offering us a glimpse into the soul of its creator.

As I wandered through galleries, I was reminded that good art is not just seen—it is felt. In this case, the paintings captured a moment in time – either imagined or real.  When cameras didn’t exist, paintings connected us to something greater. It visually shared the human journey. It told the views that the situation happened. That the sitter, existed. The imagined world of the artist, made real.

The artists may have all died.

But, their legacies continue to live on.

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