Vespertine

Before deciding on a birthday trip to Mexico City and Puerto Vallarta, I initially thought the perfect way to celebrate would be closer to home. I’d pondered making a reservation at Vespertine in Culver City. Why? For once, I wanted a Michelin-starred experience –  without the need to board a plane. Plus, I was also curious: would the magic I remembered from a pandemic-era takeout dinner in the park with Johann translate to the re-established entity of the reopened Vespertine?

Once Ted, a fellow Cancer, agreed to join me to symbolically celebrate our birthdays together, I booked the reservation. I was  excited, hopeful for a night that would feel extraordinary.

Arrival

Upon arrival, we were taken up to the top floor of the Waffle building for a kitchen tour. Then we descended to a lower level for the start of our dining experience.

And so, it began…

Dinner Menu

Vespertine

twenty fourth of June two thousand twenty-five
waning crescent illumination 1 %

WILD SCALLOP

passionfruit, aji amarillo

FIRST OF SPRING

snap peas, kiwi

DEEP OCEAN

sweet prawn, quince

OBSIDIAN MIRROR

smoked mussel, plum

KINMEDAI

red papaya, indian mallow

COTURNIX QUAIL

heather, sacred pepper

OAT PORRIDGE BREAD

quail fat

SPRING LAMB

yeast fudge, magnolia foam

RED EARTH

lily bulb, cherry, temascal

CARAMELIZED PANCAKE

lamb fat, single-malt scotch

ICY BIRCH

parsnip, reduced milk

LAYERS

black raspberry, sheep’s milk

Reflections

To the point, my drive home from Vespertine left me feeling a very interesting sensation: underwhelmed. I wasn’t directly offended and not outright disappointed. Instead, my feelings hovered in a vaguely dissatisfied, post meal purgatory.

It wasn’t that the food wasn’t beautiful – it absolutely was. But as with my experience at London’s Whiskey & Seaweed, the evening’s service lacked grounding and finesse.

Dining at Vespertine felt like I was eating at a restaurant that was still relying on its former pedigree for its Michelin stars and didn’t have solid grounding in its new iteration.

That electric current that pluses through the air that usually makes me feel that the experience is outstandingly remarkable?

That was profoundly missing.

To me, its’ recent reopening in the previous year – showed. There’s a difference between youthful – and unfinished essence of energy. Vespertine felt like a restaurant still playing dress up – with an expensive price tag to match.

Another thing was off for me was the ambiance.

Now – Los Angeles, California is known for excessively casual dining atmosphere. And I fully understand that dining in Los Angeles feels different than dining in New York or Washington DC. But, I firmly believe that there should be some sort of reverence and elegance for the price point paid for the experience.

At Alinea, Smyth, Jont or Noma, even the air feels different. There is elegance and grace for the culinary effort.  But at Vespertine, I found myself next to a table of very loud guests –  in jeans, t-shirts, and sneakers.

At an over $500 dinner, I’m not asking for tuxedos and evening gowns. But, could we aim for intention and respect of the cuisine and the dining experience?

Unfortunately, I could hear their entire conversation, thanks to Vespertine’s design and how close their table was next to ours. Which means that instead of being swept into a culinary universe that existed between us, I was mentally getting increasingly annoyed at whether this trio – two guys, one woman – had any idea where they were and how loud they were.

I wanted to be immersed and transformed into the culinary array of dishes in front of me. Instead, I was distracted.

When they left to continue their dinner portion at the lower level, the air was shockingly quieter. Again, this is due to the design of the restaurant

Overall

As the great Aretha once said while describing a certain singer: “Gowns. Beautiful gowns.”

Vespertine? Vespertine has pretty plating. “Plates. Pretty plates.”

But, you can’t out plate your way into finesse.

Later, in reflecting with my discerning food friend, Sonni, she nailed it: “We’ve just been spoiled by places that are more worth their cost.” And she’s right. When you’ve tasted and known brilliance, you can’t untaste it.

Perhaps Vespertine will get there. However, for now?

Vespertine has pretty plating.

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