Reflections from Now Serving’s screening of “Omnivore” and Q&A Session

This screening & conversation with René Redzepi of Noma and Matt Goulding provided a profound reflection on the state of world’s food supply - and the power of chili

In my life, there are certain essences of timing that are just – extra ordinary. After an outstanding dinner at Noma while in Copenhagen, Denmark mere weeks earlier, I was astonished to open an email from Now Serving Los Angeles. Not only would they be producing a screening of Omnivore, the new Apple TV+ show about stories behind the foods we eat and often take for granted. But in addition, René Redzepi – co-ower and founding chef of Noma –  and show producer Matt Goulding would be in attendance for a question and answering session with KCRW’s Evan Kleiman.

After a short wait on the waiting list, I was able to purchase my tickets for the event. I savored my waiting, excited for the opportunity. And on the appointed day, I made my way to park at the Walt Disney Concert Hall before making my way across the street with Johann – my most enthusiastic fine dining friend –  to Zipper Concert Hall.

As I waited for the event to begin, I purchased a signed copy of  Noma 2.0: Vegetable, Forest, Ocean. I felt a sense of happiness, as it was a meaningful keepsake to always remind me of my dinner experience at Noma  the previous month.

“Omnivore: Chile”: A Visual Conversation About the Power of the Chili Pepper

The screening of the “Chile” episode of Apple TV+’s series “Omnivore” was like watching an episode of Planet Earth – but with food.

The show illumined the power of chilis as electric powerhouses of passionate, relentless flavor. The right chili can over take your senses and move you on a visceral journey to the edge pain vs pleasure.

I felt that exact sensation at The Smoking Goat in London –  where I enjoyed the BARBECUE BEEF RUMP WITH GREEN TOMATO RELISH & HYSSOP with a side of house made chili sauce. The sauce was so masochistically hot and spicy, I couldn’t rationalize why I was so hell bent on continuing to eat it.

The whole meal was a lesson in heat tolerance and riding the edge of pain turning into pleasure…. With every bite, it was a balance of “Oh damn, I don’t think I can take another bite” to “Oh this is so good.” And then, I dove in for more.

- "THE SMOKING GOAT", ECLECTICKIM.COM

René’s personal story of growing up in Macedonia and how his relationship with chili began, set the opening tone of the episode. From there, the episode beautifully detailed distinct and memorable stories about how chili has influenced our food and food supply – from farming to the pursuit of taste.

I especially loved the segment on the history of Tabasco sauce. Founded by Edmund McIlhenny in 1868 on Avery Island, Louisiana, the ubiquitous hot sauce brand is still privately owned by the family today. It was a visual pleasure to see the process of the chili’s transformation – from processing the peppers, to aging them in barrels and then bottling the final product for use.

Another outstanding segment showcased how the growth and export of the paprika pepper has shaped the town of Donja Lokošnica in Serbia. Up to viewing it on the screen before me, I had never once fathomed the journey of paprika: from growing the peppers, to drying them on every hanging surface imaginable, then grinding into powder and subsequent sale and consumer use – it was a beautifully story. It made me realized how much I’ve taken my spice cabinet for granted.

Additionally, the paprika segment made me reflect of the power of legacy. What do farmers do when the younger generations simply do not want to continue traditions of farming? What does it mean now – to work the land by hand, in the age of technology and machines? What do we, as a society, do when younger generations would rather work at higher paying jobs in an office cubicle vs the heavy physical labor of working the soil for food? These questions are now demanding more answers, sooner than later.

In the final segment, both Johann and I physically winced when René encouraged the staff of Noma to eat a whole Bhut Orange Copenhagen (Capsicum chinense) – seed pods and all – in one bite.

As he mentioned during the Q&A – it was.. an intense bonding experience of camaraderie. From the comfort of my seat in the theater, I could only imagine…….

After the Screening: The Q&A  Session

First, I will say that Ken Concepcion and Michelle Mungcal’s bookstore – Now Serving – does produce some incredible events. In fact, my first introduction to Now Serving was the Bludso’s BBQ event. At the intimate affair, I was able to meet and converse with Chef Kevin Bludso and purchase a signed copy of his cookbook: Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook: A Family Affair in Smoke and Soul.

Now – for the size and scope of the Omnivore event, I knew that it would be a bit –  different. And, it definitely was.

In that light, I will say this: some people simply wanted to feel a microphone in their hands instead of furthering the conversation along. The energy of the Q&A started off with Evan leading a meandering conversation about the effects of certain chilis being similar to the effects of LSD. This banter went on for longer than desired and the reference felt – dated.

One person got a chance to ask a question – and then waxed poetic about the history of Los Angeles’ banana farms. I mentally asked – Why? You have René Redzepi sitting in front of you – and you want to ask Evan Kleiman about bananas?

At another point, a person got the microphone and it turned into a production crew call out – which René and Matt had already done. This would have been more suitable for a production wrap party.

Apparently, holding a microphone makes people deviate from common sense. Which, I can understand because all eyes are on you, waiting for you to bring us all into the next leading edge of thought, reflection and moving forward. But, when that doesn’t happen – the energy of the experience stalls and lulls. Johann and I felt this numerous times during the question and answer session.

However, there were some outstanding points – which I feel outshined everything else.

Our Food Choices Matter

The one thing I appreciated above all was being in the presence of René Redzepi. The questions reflected on were brilliant:

Why is fresh, seasonal food so expensive? What is the connection of pain vs pleasure – in food and in our lives?

When someone referenced the Omnivore episode about corn, René discussed the challenges of a monoculture. Which in contemplation – truly makes you think about the logic of “ownership and licensing” food by a rather prominent American cooperation.

He also made a seemingly throw away comment about salt – that actually was greatly amusing to me: salt is the only rock that people eat.

During another point, the collective conversation turned toward pondering what drives human appetite. Not through the lens of money or power – but in the realm of food.

Rene reflected on how what we eat, how we season what we eat and what we enjoy has shaped cultures around the world. Each culture has different expectations from their food: from the taste, smell and sensory experience of it all. But in this, when we pick up our forks and give thoughtful consideration to what is before us, we can make a difference.

The resounding message was that our food choices matter.

The Future of Noma: Noma 3.0

Someone asked about Noma 3.0 – the next evolutionary step of the Noma restaurant concept. René answered that Noma will shift from nightly dinner serve and evolute into special pop up events. Which, given the Kyoto pop up, makes sense.

In this, I understood how a chef’s creation must shift and change to align itself with present time and current inspirations.

The Future of Food

At one point, René discussed the future of human’s relationship with food on Earth. His rational was that if something is delicious enough, people will eat it. Clearly, a chef’s superpower is that they can craft what is traditionally seen as disgusting, into something delicious.

I realized this during my time at the Museum of Disgusting  in Malmo, Sweden. One culture’s delight is another’s distaste, and so on.

As a chef, René said that he works from concepts. So, if the concept is creating a new culture around food, how do you do it? How do you transform something that’s traditionally consider disgusting and make it delicious? What do you need to do to change a viewpoint around it?

With this, I believe someone asked him his view on the future of food. René answered with 4 cornerstones of Seaweed, Mushrooms, Beans – and Bugs.

Bugs? Yes, bugs. He mentioned their high protein content and I know that the majority of the audience stared back at him with glazed over eyes.

I would have loved to hear him go deeper into his vision of food’s future. Instead, I was left longing for a more in-depth discussion that simply didn’t happen. As I previously stated, people get a bit weird with a microphone in their hands.

The Question I Wanted To Ask

If I’d received the microphone, there was only one question I wanted to ask René: What do you want to be remembered for?

Yes, you created Noma. Yes, you’ve received numerous awards, praises from around world and yes people regularly shower you with compliments. But, I want to know what you – René Redzepi – want to be remembered for – as your legacy? Is it as a chef? As a food anthropologist? Or, something more?

Maybe someday, I’ll get that chance to ask him.

I look forward to hearing the answer.

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