Travel Guide: Chasing the Aurora Borealis in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada

*Ding!* My phone lit up, and the sender alone was enough to make me pause mid–getting-ready-for-a-hike in Griffith Park.

“VERY tentative, but the store is closed 12/25 – 1/4, so I’m thinking of going to Norway for the northern lights.”

The message was from my friend Amanda. Her shop shut down every year for the holidays, and true to her adventurous nature, she was already plotting where in the world to spend that unexpected freedom. I was instantly curious and fully hooked.

“May I possibly join you for part of this incredible idea?” I texted back. “And meet you there to do night stuff?”

“YES!” was the reply. “Why do you think I texted you 😂”

Norway eventually became Whitehorse in the Yukon. But, after considering the weather, our talks about Whitehorse turned into us booking a few days in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada.

Yellowknife is the end of the road – literally and figuratively. You don’t pass through; you choose to be there. It’s the capital of the Northwest Territories, about 300 miles south of the Arctic Circle. And truly, it is nothing short of incredible.

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Travel Tips

Now, there are some things that you simply cannot predict while you sit in a chair in Los Angeles, California, imagining what you’ll need. I imagined I’d need a Canada Goose jacket. And even went to the store in the Beverly Center to try on a few jackets. But, none of them felt right for my needs. Plus, at that price point, I wanted something that was tactically the price choice vs “stuntin’ on ’em” look.  This led me to become absolutely obsessed with down filling. I combed through all of my jackets to see what would work.

Luckily, before lunch with Carla at Javier’s - Pasadena in Old Town Pasadena, I walked by and later stopped in a Patagonia store. After explaining exactly what I was looking for to a helpful staff member, I was able to walk out with the Women’s Fitz Roy Down Hoody, which was 800-fill-power and 100% Responsible Down Standard down certified by Control Union (CU 880272). Alongside, I got the R1® Air Fleece Jacket as my mid layer. I already had the Hot Chillys Women’s Pepper Skins Crewneck from snowboarding. But frankly, I thought all the layering was slight bullshit.

Until I stepped off the plane in Yellowknife.

So, these are my tips for a successful trip in sub zero temperatures in December.

1. If you are staying at The Explorer Hotel, request in advance that your hotel room face North / Northeast if you want to see the northern lights from your room.
2. If you go in December, BUY AND WEAR YOUR LAYERS – TOP AND BOTTOM. You will need ALL the layers. Not just up top. But also, bottoms. You will be a marshmallow. This is not a trip for your personal styling looks. This is a trip for not getting frostbite. I ended up buying Icebreaker Merino 260 Tech base layer and was still cold.
3. Stay in town, close to Franklin Avenue vs an Airbnb near the airport. This will make your walks easier.
4. Understand that most everywhere in Yellowknife is closed on Sunday.
5. Bring mittens instead of gloves. You will need the warmth of your hands together vs apart.
6. Highly consider bringing body warmers. Ignik Multi-Use XL Warmers – 24 Hr. Multipack would work. I used a hand warmer to warm up my hands between sessions.
7. If you need to get additional clothing – don’t worry! I opted to buy a Canada Goose jacket at Weaver & Devore Trading Ltd – because with the conversion from CAD to USD, it was better to get it in Canada for future snow adventures. I also got Icebreaker Merino 260 Tech base layer pants from Overlander Sports.

Clothing Rental

If you just want to arrive and have everything taken care of, there are some clothing rental options that stand out.

1. My Backyard Tours: This is a rental company that The visitor’s center recommended.
2. Yellowknife Vacations: This is the company that Amanda used for her gear rentals. They deliver to hotels.

A local’s perspective: Nathan’s Suggestions

While on my flight from Calgary to Yellowknife, I happened to sit next to Nathan, a fantastic and friendly man who was actually from Yellowknife. During the course of our 2 hour experience together, he was instrumental in introducing me to various aspects of Yellowknife:

1. NWT Brewing Company: One of Yellowknife’s best breweries. 
2. Bullocks Bistro: Great for all around food in Old Town Yellowknife
3. The Black Knight Pub: Walkable from The Explorer Hotel
4. Old Town Glassworks: Great for making your own, very special etched souvenir from Yellowknife.
5. Bush Pilot’s Monument: A monument in Old Town dedicated to the pilots that serviced the most remote areas.
6. Sundog Adventures: For booking activities like dog sledding.
7. A Taste of Saigon: Nathan said this was fantastic Vietnamese food.

Overall, my stay in Yellowknife was absolutely incredible. Yes, it was almost -30 degrees in February. But, the conversations I had with Amanda, while drinking a local beer and contemplating life next to the fireplace at the Trapline Lounge at The Explorer Hotel, profoundly shifted something deep within me.

Sometimes, you need to go to the Great North to view your life from a different perspective.