Sometimes, the best thing you can do after a day of limited light and Arctic temperatures is relax inside your hotel. My time in Yellowknife was pretty much punctuated by my time at The Explorer Hotel. And with that, my time at their most social dining spot, the Trapline Lounge.
First Night
Arriving at The Explorer Hotel, there were only two goals on my mind. The first was to meet up with Amanda. The second? Get a cocktail and some food.
After greetings and salutations, I ordered the CANADIAN BOULEVARDIER (Confederation Oak Rye, Cinzano, Aperol, Campari, Smoke). This was an easy drinking cocktail that reminded me of if an Old Fashioned fornicated with a Negroni.
As I realized that I hadn’t eaten since my morning Breakfast at Fonda Fora at The Westley Hotel, eating was imperative. So, I ordered the TRAPLINE STEAK SANDWICH (7oz steak on fresh baguette, with rosemary aioli and topped with crispy onions) with a side of horseradish and side of ranch. I also enjoyed the PAPER PLANE (Makers Mark Bourbon, Aperol, Amaro Nonio, Lemon).
Second Night
Again, there is pretty much nothing to do in December in Yellowknife besides drink, fuck, and work. And since I was only interested in doing one of those things, I returned once more to the Trapline Lounge the second night. As Amanda had rightfully claimed the cozy chair space next to the fireplace, I relished the opportunity. I even got dressed for the occasion.
Because there was no way in hell I was going outside again. Even at 5pm.
Starting out strong, I ordered the North Star Old Fashioned (Signal Hill Canadian Rye, Bitters, Birch Syrup, Smoke). Sitting next to the fireplace with my computer, it was the perfect way to get cozy and settle in.
Next, as the NWT Brewing Company would be closed during my time in Yellowknife, I ordered a can of the NWT Brewing Company’s Ragged Pine Pale Ale. This was a nice and light, hop forward beer.
I continued with the NWT Brewing Company’s KickSled Cream Ale with the Bacon Mushroom Cheeseburger (bacon, mushrooms, a blend of cheddar and mozzarella cheese with a potato scallion bun).
To end the night, I ordered a pint of NWT Brewing Company’s Honey Bucket Nut Brown.
As it was the talking time of the night, I found myself in conversation with another patron, who was in the bar after completing a Caribou hunt. He said he was a part of an Indigenous “Band” (or First Nation Band) and I was instantly curious. We exchanged minor conversation – including him sharing photos of the hunt, describing what the hunt is like, and reviling in how much he absolutely loved his people in Fort Reliance, Northwest Territories.
When Amanda mentioned that I did landscape photography, he perked up. He then told me that he got a GoPro and was proud to record. He edited his videos and showed them to his friends when they’d come over. But, he never posted it for others.
“Why don’t you allow yourself to share videos of your adventures with others?” I asked him?
“Because, I don’t want the comments” he said.
How did we evolve as humans that the best way of living – is to stay small and quiet and not share our connected human experiences? I deeply reflected on this.
Then, I proceeded to get into a fascinating conversation with Skye, the bartender. We talked about everything from the homelessness in Yellowknife to how COVID affected the area to how fly in towns work and more. the conversation ranged from mining, the cost of living and affordability. I found it fascinating that affordability is not just a hot topic issue in the United States – but also in remote places such as Yellowknife.
I appreciated Sky’s frankness and honesty about how she saw things as being a resident. At one point, I commented that her role in the social ecosystem was like entertaining a different situationship every night. She was the constant – the person behind the bar and at the tables, conversing, getting to know a bit more about the world through the people that walk through Trapline Lounge’s entryway. For a few minutes or hours, you exist in a person’s life. And then they leave – and she stays. After thinking for a few moments, she reminisced about how true that actually was.
We also discussed the differences in aurora viewing in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories vs Whitehorse, Yukon Territory. Both are capitals of their respective territories. But, Sky mentioned that Yellowknife is possibility larger, more diverse and interesting.
Third Night
Third night, I wanted to drink Canadian finest. So Skye started me on a single pour of 40 Creek Distillery’s Copper Bold Whisky. The notes of warm nutty spice set on my tongue with every sip.
For snacking, I ordered the Chicken Wings (six honey garlic and six salt and pepper, ranch sauce and vegetables). This was fine. The in bone chicken pieces were delightfully crispy and good to munch on.
I enjoyed the Signal Hill Canadian Whisky. This Canadian whisky from Newfoundland was a lovely drinkable vibe.
My third whisky was the Forty Creek Confederation Oak Reserve. Which again – was great.
As I had more work to do, I ordered a NWT Brewing Company’s KickSled Cream Ale to sip and finish up my night with. I mean, when you’re getting ready to head out into – 25 degree weather – it’s best to have liquid courage.
The Explorer Hotel
4825 49th AveYellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada X1A 2R3
