Booking this Eating Europe Lisbon tour, my intention was to walk the city streets and enjoy bites of local cuisine. What I got was that - and more.
If it’s one thing I know I’m going to do in a vibrant European city, it’s finding a food tour to discover more about the cuisine of the area. After such an amazing time with Eating Europe’s Tour in Rome, I thought that the Lisbon tour would be just as incredible. Except, I also thought that about Fork & Walk tour I took in Berlin.
Needless to say, I have to start focusing on food tour experiences as they are, in the moment, without expectations or comparisons. Then, I won’t be disappointed.
Contudo…..
Ginginha Popular
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 65, Lisboa, Portugal
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The tour started at Ginginha Popular. I arrived a bit later, due to my train from Sintra. However, after altering Eating Europe via text message that I would have to meet the group after they left the meeting point, they gave the location and let the tour leader, Richardo, know.
When I arrived, everyone was seated and lively.
Richardo spoke about Portugal’s traditional sausage: FIREMAN CHORIZO. The chorizo is doused with brandy and set on fire. This chars the outside of the sausage, without altering the flavors internally.
We also sampled BIFANA (fried pork sandwich), two types of cheese and a selection of green and white wine marinades and beer.
Ginjinha Sem Rival
Rua Das Portas de Santo Antao 7, Lisboa, PT 1150-277
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After finishing up at the first spot, we continued our walk.
We ended up at Ginjinha Sem Rival. Richardo wanted us to taste the local liquor, GINJINHA. This delightful liqueur, crafted from ginja berries, alcohol, sugar, and a hint of cinnamon, has a history that stretches back centuries within Portugal cuisine.
I actually liked it and pondered buying a bottle. However, as it was during the first days of a rather long tour of Europe, I opted not to.
Walking more, we stopped in front of Bacalhoaria Silva as Richardo explained to us how codfish was core to Portuguese cuisine.
Cantinho do Aziz
Rua De Sao Lourenco 5, Lisbon 1100-530 Portugal
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Richardo then led us up a visually gorgeous hill, toward our next destination. I was so pleased to enjoy all of the vibrant and beautiful street art along the way.
When we arrived at Cantinho do Aziz, a Mozambican Portuguese restaurant, I was intrigued.
We enjoyed fresh PERI PERI SAUCE with our CHICKEN and BEEF INDIAN CHAMUÇAS. We chatted as a group over WHITE WINE and copious glasses of WATER in the heat.
Richardo explained that the chamuças’ history in Portugal was based around the Portuguese trade with India. Instead of rewriting history, this website is a great resource for savory Portuguese snacks and why this makes sense. In short, it was delicious.
After eating at Nando’s in England, I’ve become a Peri Peri sauce fanatic. So, having house made sauce was fiery and great.
One of the Australians had on this romper that I absolutely loved. It’s by an Australian brand named Alemais . When I first saw it, I wanted something similar, dearly. I absolutely loved it. It gave me Farm Rio vibes, which is one of my favorite brands to wear.
The Elder’s Walk
“A tribute” 2009. A permanent street exhibit in the Beco das Farinhas, Mouraria, Lisbon
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After finishing at Cantinho do Aziz, we began to walk again. We stopped in a square and gathered around Richardo.
He then said the fateful words: “I know I’m not supposed to talk about politics. So, I’m going to talk about politics.”
Unfortunate, this is where the tour went sour for me.
Richardo then began talking at us about:
- The history of Portugal joining the European Union
- How joining the EU has trashed local commerce
- How the majority of the locals can’t afford to live in Lisbon because it’s so expensive
- How the because Portugal is a part of the European Union, it has no jurisdiction over it’s own government.
and – most what the fuck and racist of all –
- That Queen Elizabeth II of England could not express her disapproval of Harry and Meghan’s marriage (inferring because Harry is white and Meghan is not), due to European Union politics.
What. The. Actual. Fuck.
When this came out of his mouth, I was absolutely floored. Not only for being an African American female paying money for a food tour. But, for the casual, what the fuck, racism of it all. More directly, Richardo feeling justified in explaining his personal dislike of the politics of the European Union – through projecting his on feelings on a situation he is so removed from that was laughable to even consider.
What does your idea of Queen Elizabeth not being able to say she doesn’t approve of her grandson’s marriage (when in their Oprah interview both Harry and Meghan said that she did) have ANYTHING to do with Portuguese cuisine? Or European Union politics?
After that, I barely listened to or trusted a word that came out of his mouth. Which is unfortunate, as I was greatly enjoying the tour up to that point.
He also mentioned that the average age is 42. Which, in his words, will lead to a retirement problem with pensions in a few years. Understandable – however I cannot do anything about that. He also stated that in general, people are not having children in Portugal, due to the high cost of living. It was all …. a set of topics that I did not feel were appropriate. Especially, after the previous comment.
He finished up his pontification about politics in Portugal and led the group on a tour of the “A Tribute”, which is a permanent street exhibit of senior community residences in the Beco das Farinhas, Mouraria, Lisbon.
Tasquinha Canto De Fado
Rua de São Cristóvão 33 & 35, 1100-514 Lisboa, Portugal
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I tried to calm down by the time we got to Tasquinha Canto De Fado. But, I was still a bit heated. I thought about pulling Richardo to the side and discussing how culturally insensitive his comment was. Because, it was clear by his presentation that he has said that shit to previous groups before.
However, I chose peace.
Sitting at the restaurant, we were served RED WINE and GINJINHA. The ginjinha here was very sweet and reminded me of port wine. Conversation at the table continued as we shared OCTOPUS CEVICHE with slices of bread.
A plate of ROASTED POTATOES WITH SLICED SQUASH was also passed around before we had our main dish.
The CODFISH WITH EGG SAUCE AND POTATOES was…………… a dish.
It was a dish……… of food.
That people eat.
Previously at Ginjinha Sem Rival, Richardo taught us about the importance of codfish in Portuguese tradition. Codfish, or “Bacalhau” in Portuguese, is intertwined with exploration, trade, and a deep-rooted culinary tradition.
Portugal’s connection with Codfish began during the Age of Exploration in the 15th century. Portuguese sailors discovered the rich fishing grounds off the coast of Newfoundland and Labrador, where Codfish was abundant. Recognizing its potential as a valuable food source that could be preserved for long sea voyages, they began salt-curing and drying the fish onboard their ships.
The salt-curing process not only preserved the Codfish but also transformed its taste, creating the iconic Bacalhau. This preserved Codfish became a staple in Portuguese cuisine, particularly during periods when fresh fish was scarce inland.
But eating it – well, at least I tried it.
As Tasquinha Canto De Fado is a fado restaurant, Richardo was alerted by a member of the restaurant staff that a fado performance was going to stop. Some of the group mentioned an interest in staying to listening to the performance. However, after a few minutes, Richardo said that it would take too long and would delay the end of the tour. A few Americans and Australians express frustration.
But, we continued on.
Walking to Manteigaria
As we walked around Santa Justa area, Richardo told us that visiting the Elevator de Santa Justa wasn’t worth it. Which was a throw away comment that didn’t need to be said. I thought the elevator was beautiful and historically a significant mechanical feat. So, who cares if people find joy in waiting in line and using it? Sometimes, it’s not the end goal. But the journey taken to get there.
Like during this segment. Instead of having a high investment of what was said, I just focused on the beautiful street art.
He also talked to us about Portugal’s drug problem. He said that if someone approaches us, we need to know that drugs are decriminalized. However, if people get caught, they are sent to therapy instead of the legal system.
I mean – in the 1990s, Portugal was in an opioid crisis. However, drugs were decriminalized in 2001. Over 20 years ago. Richardo lightly mocked a policy that actually has shown proven success in helping addicts by combining community and health resources. It was unfortunate.
As we continued, Richardo did reiterate that cork is one of Portugal’s strongest exports. Because – wine.
Manteigaria
R. do Loreto, 2 1200-242 Lisbon Portugal
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Finally, we made our way to our final stop for the famous Portuguese custard tart, known as PASTEL DE NATA.
The story of Pastel de Nata dates back to the early 19th century, in the Belém district of Lisbon, where the famous Pastéis de Belém bakery still stands today. It is said that Catholic monks at the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém used egg whites to starch their clothes, leading to a surplus of egg yolks. To avoid waste, they began using the yolks to create pastries and desserts, including what eventually became the Pastel de Nata.
Pastel de Nata is characterized by its crisp, flaky pastry shell and creamy custard filling, which is typically flavored with vanilla and cinnamon.
When I bit into it, I was in a moment of pleasure.
It was absolutely delicious.
Finally, I’d enjoyed every single thing I’d had on my to do list in Portugal.
Overall
Overall, am I happy I took the tour? I would say that I’m okay, Ricardo was personable and it was interesting to hear him speak – until it wasn’t. Instead of feeling elated and satisfied at the tend of the tour, like I did during the Rome tour, I felt ready to be done with the experience.
Maybe my expectations were too high. But, I do wish the “Heart of Lisbon Food Tour: Baixa, Chiado & Bairro Alto” had an open spot when I was booking, instead of this tour.
In any case, I paid for and had an experience. And in the end, I sat and watched an amazing sunset in Europe. Sometimes, that’s all you need to put a smile on your face.
Undiscovered Lisbon Food & Wine Tour with Eating Europe Lisbon
Lisbon, Portugal