Beckon

Beckon in Denver, Colorado, is an intimate, chef-driven restaurant offering a seasonal tasting menu that highlights meticulously crafted dishes.

When choosing a peak dining experience in Denver, I relied on my friends for suggestions. The friends I knew that lived in Denver didn’t really have a suggestion – as they’ve all turned into happy home bodies.

So, I relied on my friend Jessica’s highly recommended suggestion of dining at Beckon, a one Michelin starred restaurant in the River North Arts District area of Denver. She’d visited Denver the previous year and simply raved about her experience. So, curious – I made a reservation of a seat for one.

I arrived at my appointed time of 8pm. Unfortunately, my seat was not ready – so I was guided to the neighboring Major Tom to wait.

It was so cute! I ordered THE 130+ (Vodka, yellow chartreuse, falernum, lemon + mole bitters) cocktail. Before I knew it, I was approached by a host and guided back to Beckon for my dinner.

I will admit, the first time I sat down, I was overwhelmed with the loud, horrid human having inappropriate dinner conversations with her friends seated three seats from me. Her voice was so loud, distracting and uncouth that I was overcome with anger. I asked if I could be moved to another area of the U shaped table. Unfortunately, with the configuration of party seating, I was not able to move. Luckily, the party that she was a part of had finished their dessert course – and were overstaying their welcome. Which, created a problem for the next two reservations that needed the seats.

With a firm swiftness, the staff of Beckon repeatedly – with increasing strength – guided  the woman and the indiviuals with her to Major Tom to continue their conversation.

I mean – for the price I pay for dinner, I do not need to overhear your political views or how dry and dusty your sexual parts are because “no one will have sex with you”. I did not pay for dinner and a show – only dinner. Kindly take yourself to Applebee’s or Chili’s with that level of conversation. Or, just be a decent human and lower your voice to respect those around you.

Once she left, the energy of the dining area immediately changed and I felt my body completely relax. I was finally open to receive the exquisite, delicious experience before me.

Beckon Chef’s Tasting Menu
The Grain Moon
August 2024

Hibiscus, Chrysanthemum & Cherry

Lobster, Fennel and Trout Roe

Cherry Tomato, Basil & Salad Burnet
with R. Dumont E Fils Solera Réserve (Chardonnay)

This was a palate cleansing pop of freshness in my mouth. The tomatoes were peak in plumpness and flavor.

Corn, Celtuce & Caviar

This was absolutely, spoon licking delicious. Plus, they honored my request for a smaller portion of caviar. Most importantly, the caviar complimented the dish, rather than overpowered it.

Tilefish, Clam & Potato
with Guillaume Michau (Chardonnay) Chablis 2021

This dish was absolutely scrumptious. The bread – a tomato bread made with tomato water  for added flavor – was outstanding. It took well to the creamy butter I slathered on it.

Scallop, Chicken & Marigold
with Âmevive ‘Sundrop’ (Marsanne + Roussanne + Viognier) Los Olivos 2023

Again, another outstanding dish. The scallop soaked up the poured sauce, complimenting it perfectly. The lime zest, delicately placed on top of the scallop, was radiant with intense citrus flavor. The layered complexity was – simply put – an oral joy to behold

Duck, Chanterelle Mushroom & Peach
with Buisson-Charles ‘Hautes-Coutures’ (Pinot Noir) Meursault 2022

This dish was one of my favorites on the tasting menu. It was visually wonderful – and taste as incredible as it looked. The sorrel mushroom offered a plump earthiness to the course that I greatly appreciated. The crisped duck skin was excellent.

Berkshire Pork, Beet & Mustard Seed
with Radio-Coteau ‘Las Colinas’ (Syrah) Sonoma Coast 2020

This was another banger. I could have been happy with this being my peak course for the night. The pork slice was fatty, juicy and delicious. The reduced beet juice was a pleasant surprise that worked extremely well in adding distinct flavor the dish.

Yeah, I could have stopped here…

However – when my server previously listed the evening’s special supplements, my curiosity was sparked by the Japanese A5 Wagyu.

Now, I’ve had Japanese Wagyu steak before. Notably at Kazahana in Japan and at Per Se in New York. I scoffed to myself – how would Beckon actually present the dish in a way that would actually make it an incredible, culinary experience?

In conversation, I asked a chef his opinion on the dish. Plus – on the chance that I ordered it – what should I have with it? Almost immediately, he intensely suggested a particular 16 year old Japanese Whisky.

I sighed. I was presented with an offer of sensual pleasure I simply did not want to refuse….

2 oz Japanese A5 Wagyu Ribeye with Caramelized Onion, Miso & Jus
with Hakata 16 Year Old Sherry Cask Japanese Whisky

This was…..

Absolutely. Fucking. Exceptional.

From the vintage bone knife to the course itself – this was one of the finest presentations of Japanese A5 Wagyu ribeye I have had the pleasure of eating. There’s something about Japanese whisky that is an affirmation to life itself. Paired with premier cuts of 2 ounces of the more incredible meat in the world?

It was a lesson in what true, carnal pleasure tastes like.

Cucumber, Verjus & Black Mint

This was a cool and refreshing palate cleanser to start the dessert courses. It was crispy, bright and refreshing on my spoon.

Plum, Shiso & Szechuan
with Analemma (Petit Manseng) Columbia River Gorge 2021

Flavors of Cherry
with Vinhos Barbeito’s Malvasia Candida 2006

This incredible wine – from Vinhos Barbeito – made me want to immediately book a return trip to Portugal.

As my main sommelier for the evening poured the glass –  and my wonderful server reappeared – they stated that this was their gift to me. Why? Because they wanted to express how much they enjoyed interacting with me, throughout the evening.

Simply put, I felt an intense emotion of powerful appreciation as he finished pouring. It was such an unexpected gift of appreciation.

This port – paired with the playfulness of the cotton candy and the beautiful chocolates – was *chef’s kiss*. The perfect end to what turned into an incredibly beautiful evening of conversation, food and the pursuit of oral pleasure.

Overall

Overall, this was the most outstanding dining experience I’ve had in Denver, Colorado.

One of the most outstanding moments was my conversation with my main sommelier, Logan. He told me about his wine consulting business, Ah-So Consulting. He also taught me that he pairs the wine with the sauces, not necessarily the meat itself. This lends to a more richer, complex course that compliments the flavors better than just “one rule fits all.”

Another conversation I found myself in with staff was in discussing the shared experience of visiting Noma, in Copenhagen within the same year. I visited for Vegetable Season, wheras he’d visited during Ocean season. As I shared my experience of being present for the Now Serving’s screening of “Omnivore”, and Q&A Session with René Redzepi of Noma & Matt Goulding that I’d attended, we engaged in a quick discussion of Omnivore and the impact and importance of quality, small scale farming. He told me that the beets in the “Berkshire Pork, Beet & Mustard Seed” dish came from heirloom beets grown from Row 7 Seed Company seeds, from Hudson Valley, New York.

Details, matter.

It’s in these details – even from knowing where the seeds themselves are sourced – that transform ingredients into extra ordinary culinary experiences.

For that – for everyone at Beckon – I say: Thank you.

I look forward to the next time I take a seat at your table.

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